Baja 2020

Because we had heard rumblings that Mexico might shut its border, I had to boogie down there a day early and still had to finish a big brief that was coming due in US District Court.   So we spent the first two nights in a deserted campground on Punta Banda overlooking the Pacific:

It was $10 a night and had strong wi-fi, so I set up a new home office:   

It was windy and rainy as all fuck though.  Wasn’t expecting that and glad a still had a heavy sweater and rain jacket I was wearing when I came down from Oregon.   But got my brief finalized and filed and it was finally time to relax.   It was still quite a way to our final destination on the Sea of Cortez, so we started making our way down Mexico Hwy 1, which was flooded in parts:

 Spent the following night at another deserted campground on the Pacific south of San Quintin:

The next day we headed inland and started getting into some really funky desert landscapes in the Parque Natural Desierto Central. 

With all the rain, everything was in bloom, including the Cisero tree things:

Giant Cardon:

We also checked out some ancient cave art:

After camping in the central desert one night, we kept winding our way down Mex 1.   Went through several military check points, but the soldiers just waived us through each time, until we got to the Laguna de Ojo Liebre on the Pacific.   Camped there two nights.  No cell service or water, but they had palapas and at $10 per night, it was a good deal:

Best part of this place is that it has thousands of grey whales in the laguna that time of the year.  We went out on a panga to check them out.   I have seen plenty of whales in Oregon and elsewhere, but nothing like this place:  

They were everywhere and not shy at all.   A mother whale and her calf swam right up the boat and hung out in arms distance for a good half hour before we had to head back in:

After camping at the laguna for two nights, we crossed over the peninsula and made it our destination off the Sea of Cortez.   Camped one night at campground south of Santa Rosalia and encountered the first hot shower in over a week!

We then headed a south to Mulege and spent two nights at a developed campground outside of town.   They had wi-fi and a washer machine, so got caught up on work emails and was able to do a load of laundry:

Still had time to do some hiking:

And we also busted out my brother’s inflatable two-person kayak, which we took out on the relatively calm waters of the Sea of Cortez to a little island, where we finally able to do some snorkeling.  Scrapped my thumb on some barnacles.  Nasty stuff because the wounds don’t heal normally, so it was a minor pain in the ass for the rest of the trip.  At least I was traveling with a doctor who assured me it wouldn’t need to be amputated.

After stocking up on provisions in Mulege, we headed down about 20 miles south of town to Bahia Concepcion and camped three nights at Playa Escondia.   No running water or cell service, but for $7.50 per night you got a palapa and a place to park your rig right on the beach.    Well worth it.   There was great snorkeling right off the beach (we were stuffing clams into a wetsuits) and we took the kayak out to a little island a couple times:

Also hiked up a steep trail overlooking the beach to a Virgin de Gaudalupe shrine thing.   Great views from the top, but didn’t wear my hiking boots and busted my ass on the way down:

One day, we hired a dude named Ramon to take us out fishing in his panga.  He has lived on that beach for 30 years and knows the waters well.   Although it was really choppy, we were still able to catch a good-sized snapper and a couple of Cochinos.   We had fish tacos for the rest of the trip.   I would highly recommend staying at Playa Escondia if you are down that way:

We then headed south to Loreto, where we stocked up again on provisions.  By that time, businesses were starting to close (including the dive shops) but no real panic buying.   We then headed south of town about 20 miles to an undeveloped campground on the beach called “Rattlesnake Beach.”   No amenities, but spread out camping spots right on the beach with the Sierra de Gigantes to the west:

It was supposedly $6 per night, but nobody ever came by to take our money.  Standing on the beach, you wouldn’t be surprised to see Charlton Heston himself riding down the beach on horseback, cavewoman in tow.   Here was our spot:

As with Playa Escondia, this place also had great kayaking and snorkeling:

Got to mess around with my underwater camera, but it was a lot easier taking pictures of coral and urchins than moving fish:

We also found that if we hiked up a steep hill overlooking the beach, we got cell service:

After two nights there, I had to go to Loreto to catch a flight back to the states.   Spent one night in an almost deserted gringo campground (with hot showers) and then flew back in the next day.   Only 13 people on a plane that holds 180, so no worries about social distancing on that flight:

>>>> I guess it's pretty safe??

There was some narrow and poorly maintained sections of Mex Hwy 1 with oncoming big rigs, no shoulder, and shit like this in the road:

However, aside from road conditions, we never felt unsafe.  But we never traveled on the roads after dark (which is very dangerous for a number of reasons) and always stayed in established (albeit often deserted) camping areas.   The cartels are active in Baja, but by and large, they don't mess with gringos.   We did hear about two Canadian dudes on the mainland traveling in a van who were killed by banditos, but they were camped in some random spot.

I would highly recommend making the trip and give yourself at least a month if you want to make it down to the tip and back.